NEWSLETTER NOV - DEC 2002
 
 


THE "RODE" TO RONDA
September 2002
Athough this was to be the fourth trip to Spain, things were to be a little different this year and it was like starting over. Due to various problems, we had not managed to “ride the bike in”…or ourselves either for that matter.
The Lake District weekend, which normally puts miles on both bike and bums, had proved disastrous for us. The bike had developed an electrical problem, Dennis had developed a chest infection, and the haversack, not the riding, (thank God) had given me a bad back.
June, July and August came and went and we still had no saddlebag supports, hadn’t tried out the new luggage and still hadn’t ridden the miles.
Come September and the supports were ready so I filled up the bags, clipped them on the bike and set off on a test run. After doing a few laps of our local roads, trying to cover all eventualities, we turned for home for more testing.
The bike is very low by itself, but how low will it be with both of us and the luggage mounted? Lee arrived and it was time to find out. Bags loaded, Lee took the bars, I took the rear and Dennis took the measurement…..two and a half inches – maximum!! That’s LOW. We did a bit of bouncing about while Dennis watched ( for grounding purposes of course).
Testing over, we agreed, that if the ramp wasn’t too steep, we would get on the boat. So let’s GO…
Friday 13th

Glad we weren’t going today, bad luck and all that. Eventually I squashed all our gear into two saddlebags, loaded the bike, checked all our bits and bobs, money, passports, tickets – all present and correct, we were ready.

Saturday 14th
Warrington to Portsmouth – 240 miles


"Come on, Dennis, where are you?"

I woke up early, looked out and the sun had got its hat on, a great day to ride to the ferry. As luck would have it (or maybe not) I nagged Dennis to get the bike out early so I could park both cars on the drive. Then it all started to go downhill.
As Dennis was getting the bike out of the garage, the handlebar stud sheared off – panic. We had nothing that would fit, Lee stripped Flipper but to no avail.
“Don’t panic!” said Lee, “I’ll pop over to The Trading Post and get something.” And off he popped.
In the meantime, I was frantically yelling into Bill’s answering machine and ringing the gang to tell them to go without us.
Lee made it to Bill’s in record time, was handed a package (Dennis had managed to speak to Bill and told him what was needed) and, with a few strange looks from customers in the shop, fired up the V-Max and headed back.
It was agreed to change both studs and after a lot of careful pushing and shoving (the bike is wired through the bars) at 12:30 pm we were ready to leave.
We made good time, had one stop for petrol and food, then Dennis decided to crack on. Lee clocked us at 112mph (hope the police aren’t reading this) and then he noticed there was something wrong with our exhaust. We pulled into a service area to check the exhaust and as Dennis flicked the side stand down, the spring flew off!
Dennis said “Oh dear me” or words to that effect, and Lee said “Don’t panic” and magically produced a colour co-ordinated bungy cord to fix the stand and a black (what else) cable tie to fix the loose exhaust.
No more problems encountered, we arrived at Portsmouth and were greeted with an NHC welcome as they waved us into the pub car park. 6pm…just time for a drink before boarding.
We waited ages to board and then all of a sudden they rushed the bikes forward. Because of the ground clearance, I asked Tony if I could ride with him onto the boat, so I hurriedly tried to get onto the back of his Road King. It’s a lot wider than the bike I’d just got off, so, much to Tony’s and other people’s amusement, I eventually, in an extremely unladylike manner, mounted the beast. We all boarded, found our cabins, found the bar, the evening passed into the night and the night passed into oblivion. That’s one birthday I’ll not forget in a hurry!!
Sunday 15th

We had a lie in until about 11:30am, had breakfast, then lunch, did a bit of shopping (nuts and bolts from the on-board fitting shop) and then the sea got rough.












I’m not the best of sailors, so I spent the rest of the crossing in bed hoping for better things to come when we reached Spain.
Monday 16th
Bilbao to Avila – 259 miles
A8 / E70 / A625 / N1 / N110
The boat docked on time and once on the quayside, Dennis fitted the “shopping” to the exhaust and we were ready for off. Lee had picked the route, off the motorway asap and head for the village of Pancorbo for the first stop.

The road over the mountains was very picturesque, somewhat “bumpy” and a little twisty in the wet. However we didn’t lose anybody and the first morning’s ride had given rise to a few comments…Annie’s “I’ve never ridden a mountain pass before breakfast before” and Tony’s “I thought Spain was flat” were a couple of the cleaner ones.
We had a brew, watched an old lady doing her washing and set off towards Burgos. A late lunch stop at Aranda de Duero and then just before we turned towards Avila the bike developed a clutch problem.
As luck would have it, or maybe not, we had stopped next to a Ford dealers (they had the required tool) and whilst the repair was under way, it poured down and most of us were able to shelter from the rain. Problem solved, we duly arrived in Avila, found a hotel with garage and, as normal downed a few beers.
Avila is a lovely walled city, shame it was cold and wet, maybe the overnight storm (which I slept through) would clear the air and settle the weather – I said maybe.

Tuesday 17th
Avila to Puertollano – 181 miles
N403 / N401 / N420

It was dull and cloudy as we headed out towards Toledo, the roads were empty and scenic and we were making a good pace when our clutch lever pin flew away. We were stopped on a bend out in the middle of nowhere. Dennis and the others were walking up and down the road looking for the pin, when, as they do, Plod appeared.
In pigeon Spanish and with a lot of hand signals we managed to make them understand our plight.
To no avail…”Move on, move on” was their reply.
As luck would have it (true this time) Keith found a rusty bolt at the side of the road, which, with the help of a little insulation tape (blue, of course) slotted into the offending hole and we were off again.

The roads were really good and I was enjoying the scenery as we climbed and descended towards the lunchstop at Fuente el Fresno. Would I have enjoyed it quite as much if I had known the front brake was non-operational on the last steep descent?
Brake repaired, we carried on towards Ciudad Real, onto Puertollano and found the Hotel Verano for our next stop just before the heavy rain started.
The hotel did not have a garage but the owner asked us if we wanted to put our bikes on the front porch…so we did.




WEDNESDAY 18th
Puertollano to Antequera 172 miles
N420 / NIV / N331
Rain - heavy rain - Dennis & I, Keith & Elaine and John & Annie decided not to set off with the gang but to give the weather an hour or so to clear up -and it did. We continued south, the rain had stopped completely by the coffee stop and the sun came out -for a little while at least. We passed the others parked up, couldn't stop so we carried on to Lucena for lunch and then the gang went by us.
We had already decided to stay at Antequera overnight which would leave us about 50 miles to ride the next day to get to Ronda. The others wanted to get to Ronda today so it was a bit if a surprise to find them parked up in the Town Square as we arrived. They had stopped for a quick brew and were ready to ride off, obviously they had stayed long enough to leave their mark-a giant poster of 'Saint Turkey' was looking down on us from the church wall!










We'd stopped outside a hotel that looked okay but we decided to have a look around. I boarded the armchair on the Goldwing with a lot more grace than I had the Road King and Keith & I set off around the narrow streets. Nothing better was found so we booked in, downed a few beers, had a nap, dined and sat outside - yes outside - for a few more drinks. I telephoned Tony to see how they were doing- they had taken a wrong turn, arrived in Ronda just a little later than planned, had a problem in finding accommodation and were just sitting down to their evening meal- it was 11 pm!
THURSDAY 19th
Antequera - Ronda - 57 miles
A343 / A382 / A357 / A367
We were ready to leave when a drunk accosted Elaine, Keith dashed to the rescue and the hotel staff restrained the assailant. Elaine was unhurt but shaken, not something you'd expect to happen at 10:30 in the morning! The hotel staff were very apologetic and had called for the police - we decided to leave pronto - our Spanish isn't up to composing a statement.
The road was fabulous, Ronda sits on a mountain and the views riding into the town were spectacular. After a quick phone call to Tony we negotiated the very busy narrow streets and a waving Turkey guided us in, we'd made it and the sun was shining.
We parked up in the square outside the very impressive Parador de Ronda (Paradors are a chain of state run hotels that are usually situated in castles or buildings of that nature). Lee and Dave kept a watchful eye over our machines whilst we settled ourselves down outside a cafe (bar of course). As luck would have it we were opposite an "Oficina de Turismo" so I popped in and got a list of hotels and a map.
We opted for the aptly named Hotel El Tajo (History lesson - Ronda is famous for the bridge - El Tajo - where, in days gone by, persons of ill repute came to a sticky end). Map in hand Annie and I set off on foot and easily located the said place - checked out the rooms, cost, garage - all OK so we booked in and returned to get the bikes and gear. Locating the hotel by machine was a little more complicated - however eventually we arrived, unloaded, changed and met up with the gang for lunch.
We were sitting in a cafe / bar which was situated in one of Rondas narrow streets, the sun was shining and Turkey was displaying his newly acquired sandals, (shame about the size) Pete only takes size 5 and had bought size 8 -so watch out girls - he was wearing my sandals one evening. Anyway back to reality and wind up time. Turkey decided it was warm enough to sunbathe and to my horror said he was going to do it right there and then in his underpants! In my sternest voice, as he was undoing his jeans, I cried "NO you're not doing it here" , to no avail off came the jeans to reveal he was sporting a snazzy pair of shorts, wind up or what!
After lunch we meandered through the town down to the bridge and on crossing over into the old town spied Glyn, Linda, Stuart and Ian having a sedate lunch in a cafe overlooking the gorge. We waved but they didn't appear to see us - so we all lined up along the edge of the bridge and whistled Dixie or was it Boggsey - sedate lunch no more!
The old town in Ronda is well worth a visit, beautiful courtyards, magnificent historic buildings and very narrow streets. Comment from Turkey as we meandered along – “I could do some fu**ing damage with my truck through here”. Others saw it from a slightly different perspective.
Back to the hotel, nap time, shower and out again for more food and beer,

FRIDAY 20th
Ronda-Algodonales via Grazalema-Ronda - 47 miles
A376/un-named/A376

We had booked the hotel in Ronda for 3 nights, so everybody did what they wanted. Some went to Gibraltar, some set off for the coast, carried on to Gib but were unable to enter-no passport (I'm not saying who) and some stayed put.
Dennis and I set off to get petrol and jet wash the bike. We missed the garage in the town and found ourselves on the road down to the coast. I know this sounds strange but you have to climb out of Ronda before you go down the 40 rniles or so to sea level- anyway on the uphill we ran out of petrol.
Having never used reserve on this bike we turned round and just managed to splutter into the garage that we had obviously ridden past on the way out.
Petrolled up we found the jet wash, gave the bike a once over with a spanner as well as water and let it dry in the sunshine as we partook of a little light refreshment in the bar, next door.
Back to Ronda and decision time, the weather forecast for the next couple of days wasn't good and I had wanted to do two things when we got to Ronda. One was to ride to the coast. We had driven (in a hire car) this road a few years ago and had said it would be fantastic to ride it on a bike. The other was to ride the 'best riding road in Europe' as quoted in an article in Bike Magazine by two riders (on Japs I must add) who had ridden up to Ronda from the coast and thought that was the best until they rode from Ronda to Grazalema. I had also read an article in a travel book suggesting a 50-mile round trip through the national park to Grazalema, down to the lake and back to Ronda.
Decision made we'd go for it, found the turning to the national park, fabulous scenery, no traffic and NO road, to speak of anyway. Obviously the travel book wasn't expecting you to be riding an extremely low custom Harley. Nevertheless we made it, Grazalema itself appeared closed so we took a few pictures and set off to find this "Best Road" and the lake, We did and it was well worth it - but I must disagree with the article - the road from Ronda to the coast at San Pedro is the best
Once back in Ronda, normality resumed, nap time, shower, food, drink, the by now daily text from Turkey, 'Mum where are you?' and we all met up for a resumé of the day’s events.

SATURDAY 21st
Ronda -La Cala - Ronda - 110 miles
A376 / A7 / N340

Drizzle - what to do - Tony had set off for Malaga to find the Harley shop, others were having a day of rest, so as the skies were clearing and this was our last day in Ronda, Dennis and I decided to go down to the coast
The road from Ronda to San Pedro is a forty-mile twister with spectacular views at every turn and is definitely the road to ride if you're ever down that way, From San Pedro we took the motorway to avoid the traffic in Marbella and then onto the infamous N340 (Malaga to Cadiz death trap) to La Cala.
You may or may not know, that Big Phil, Kriztina and Kriztianne now live in Spain and we had spoken to them earlier in the week about meeting up. As they only live about 3 miles from Joe's bar I gave them a bell, woke them up from their siesta and they rode over for a few beers. On the way to the bar we'd passed Tony on the opposite carriageway and I was just about to phone him when my phone rang - he was parked up about a mile away and had been looking for this bar on his way back from Malaga. He joined us, as did two of Kriztina' s 'Swedish' female friends for a few drinks and a chat. As the sun began to set it was time for us to leave, not only due to the drinking and driving bit but we had to be home before dark - no front light! We left a club T-shirt and some stickers at the bar to mark our visit and set off upwards back to Ronda.
The usual normalities over, the gang merged at our Hotel to plan the trip home. Glyn and Linda were going to stay another night and then go to Seville before heading to the boat whilst Stuart and Jan were going to leave a little later than the rest of us and catch us up on the way.

SUNDAY 22nd
Ronda - Bailen - 194 miles
A367 / A382 / A92 / A333 / A331 / A316 / N432 / A316 / N323

We took the easy road out of Ronda towards Campillos, bypassed Antequera and eventually, after doing a couple of laps of a sleepy (until we rode through) little town, stopped just outside Archicdona for coffee.
We had decided to go 'across country' to join the main E5 at Jaen, glad we did it was a brilliant road with a lake on one side and mountains on the other. We met up with Stuart and Jan, took some pictures and then took a wrong turn (I don't think anybody noticed).
After lunch at a place called Don Mendo (shame we couldn't find Don but as luck would have it, this time we didn't need any Mendo) we re-routed and headed towards Jaen.
Not having passed any suitable accommodation en route we headed for Bailen and to a hotel Keith and Elaine had used earlier in the year. Hotel Zodiaco was hosting a wedding at the time of our arrival and I must say everyone was completely unfazed by a gang of leather clad bikers mingling with the guests. Would it happen in England - I think not!
I don't know if this happens to all men over 50 who ride Harleys but Dennis, in his younger days could spot 'a perfect 10' a mile off. Now it's jet washes, and true to form there was one next to the hotel. Even though it looked like rain we bathed the machine before tucking it up for the night, nice and warm in the basement garage of the hotel.

MONDAY 23rd
Bailen - Aranjuez -154 miles
NIV (E5)

Heavy rain - the boys set off whilst the couples waited for a break in the weather. We were hoping to get to within about 50 miles of Madrid today and a place called Aranjuez was favourite. Today we were going straight up the NIV (a main thoroughfare) without detouring so after about an hour the rain had stopped and we set off.
Coffee and petrol at Valdepenas, then off again and we passed the boys parked up at a services. We stopped again for petrol and they passed us. The sky was darkening as we set off, then the rain started, showers at first and then rain so heavy that even I, on the back wearing a full-face helmet, couldn't see.
We pulled off at the next services sign but as quite often happens in Spain the service area was nowhere to be seen - we were passing a bridge so I yelled to
Dennis turn to go underneath - what a shock. There were the 'others' sheltering from the storm.
After taking a few pictures of Turkey playing in the 'river' that was flowing under the bridge, we were deciding on a plan of action when, as they do, 'the Plod' appeared from nowhere - "Move on, move on" (heard that before?)

We set off and then were diverted by more Plod to the service area - the road was not passable for motorbikes – the flood was too deep! As luck would have it (or maybe not) we were only 5 miles from Aranjuez and there was a hotel at the services. so we decided to book in. No joy - it was full, so we had a coffee or two and waited for the storm to pass.
The slip road was blocked by mud so we followed the directions of the 'Bobby' who after a few vicious toots on his whistle, walked through a gap in the armco and waved us back onto the road - Frightening!
We arrived in Aranjuez at rush hour and all parked up while Lee did a lap to find a hotel. The staff were very accommodating, there was a small room available for some parking and space outside for the rest of us to park. But what a shock when we opened the huge door to our room, the door was as wide as the room itself - it was the worst room we had ever had. Needless to say the bar called and normality took over.
The city of Aranjuez hosts many historic buildings and a very old renowned restaurant 'EI Rana Verde' (“The Green Frog” to you) where we all enjoyed a splendid meal.

TUESDAY 24th
Aranjuez - Haro - 272 miles
NIV (E5) / M30 / Nl / N110 / N122 /N111 / N232

I was up early due to the awful night’s sleep whilst others were up early due to the JCB outside their windows, never the less the sun was shining as we set off for Madrid.
I wasn 't looking forward to the trip, heavy traffic and the heat of the city was on my mind. However no problems, the route was well signposted, relatively little traffic and it was only 19C.
We stopped for coffee, cakes and a bucket of water for Lee and Turkey to wash their bikes before going across country towards Soria. Turkey had promised Lee 'a go' on his shovel, so it was time to swap machines.
Apart from causing personal 'rear end' damage, Turkeys Shovel, with his careful handling had performed faultlessly and continued to do so when Lee took the controls - maybe a little faster though - the phrase sh*t off a shovel comes to mind. Playing over, we stopped for lunch at San Esteban de Gormaz and somehow lost Lee.
Dennis at the helm we set off towards Soria, the scenery was fantastic but we didn't have any luck in finding a hotel so we pressed on toward Logrono. The road between Soria and Logrono is one of the best, the changes in landscape are incredible but again we had no luck in finding accommodation, in fact in one little village we couldn't even find the hotel. It was getting late so we headed straight into town but again no luck…there was a festival in full swing and all the hotels were full.
Darkness was looming and as we had no front light, Tony took the lead towards Vitoria Gastiez. On the way we lost a few, found them, lost another and then Keith spotted a sign for Haro (we'd been here last year) and a large hotel appeared out of the darkness. They had just enough rooms, thank God; we were tired, cold and had ridden many more miles than had been planned. Elaine located Tony and directed him in by phone, Lee, after doing the mountain pass in both directions looking for us, had found himself a hotel, so we were all accounted for except Glyn and Linda.
Glyn had already phoned to say they were in Seville and had got the T-shirts from the Harley shop, what he didn't say was that they had arrived there in a recovery van. So when he phoned to ask where we were I was very surprised to find out they were at home in Liverpool. No quick fix gearbox trouble 25 miles from Ronda had resulted in them being rescued to Seville, then train to Malaga and Easy Jet home-and we thought we'd had problems!

As we were only about 60 miles from Bilbao we agreed to stay here in Haro for two nights and settled in to enjoy the comforts of the hotel. Obviously I was wrong to assume we were all tired, for one of us was 'rearing' to go and ride for a little longer- Turkey, nude on an exercise bike, is a sight not to be missed.











 

WEDNESDAY 25th

A lie-in, breakfast in bed, a leisurely walk into the picturesque old town, then Dennis was at it again-you've guessed, he'd spotted a jet wash! The rest of the last day passed relatively uneventfully. Lee had arrived earlier in the day and we all made plans to leave early the next day to get to the ferry on time.

THURSDAY 26th
Haro to Bilbao - 59 miles
N124 / A68 / A8

Blue skies and sun, the weather looked good for the last day’s riding in Spain. There was a big mountain between us and the boat and the higher we climbed the colder it got, it was actually freezing. An unscheduled stop to warm our hands etc caused a split in the pack but half an hour later saw us all together again waiting to board the ferry in the warm sunshine of Bilbao.
Only one night aboard 'inward' as they say, the weather forecast was for calm seas, so I chanced a meal and a few drinks in the carvery. No problemo - the food stayed where I'd put it and I managed to stay topside for the rest of the evening.

FRIDAY 27th
Portsmouth to somewhere on the Newbury bypass and to Warrington - 240 miles

Dennis hates this day on the boat, just trying to pass the time until docking is not his favourite pastime! Luckily we arrived early, Stuart and Jan made a dash alone for home (or something like that) and the rest of us rode together for a while. Then Keith and Elaine blasted off, Dave was going to Oxford, visiting, Lee and Tony were going straight home and the rest of us were looking for a hotel.
In heavy traffic we lost Turkey which left me, Dennis, John and Annie to book into the Travel Lodge, Unfortunately there was no BAR so it was early to bed and early to rise for the last 180 miles and home.

When anybody asks me 'What was your holiday like?' I reply 'it was an adventure' and I hope everybody else enjoyed it as much as I did.

Special thanks to Lee, for without him there'd be no tale to tell.

Janet

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